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A romantic stroll along the banks
of the Onyar proves irresistable to some, while for others Girona is best enjoyed by lingering in one of the outdoor cafes along the tree-lined Rambla, or from
elegant squares
such as Placa de Independencia, where the most energetic occupation is watching the world pass by ...
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... while for the adventurous with a keen sense of direction (or a long ball of string) exploring the maze of jumbled alleys of the OLD QUARTER is not to be missed ...
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... which way now, Mum?
Search and rescue parties can be arranged for those not home by midnight - seven days notice required! ...
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... and you never know who might be just round the corner!
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The walk along the OLD TOWN WALL provides wonderful views of the low-lying countryside around Girona. The crescent of hills which forms the backdrop to this vista melts into the Pyrenees to the north. Twenty miles to the south-east, the hills suddenly plunge into the sea.
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Descending the wall at intervals allows visitors to enjoy the LANDSCAPED GARDENS which nestle at the foot of the wall, where cosy wooden benches give shady refuge from the midday sun.
The original wall built by the Romans in the 3rd century B.C. was relatively low. In an effort to better fend off attacks, it was fortified and expanded in medieval times. But few protective walls in Europe can have had such little success in dissuading potential invaders - Girona has been besieged on 25 different occasions, seven of which resulted in foreign conquest of the city.
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Heading directly out of our apartment, and turning left at the bottom of the hill, you find yourself wandering through the VALLEY OF SANT DANIEL, heading into wooded countryside. For the energetic, the three-hour round trip up to the ruins of the monastery of Sant Miguel is well worth the effort, producing breathtaking views over the Bay of Roses to the east.
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Within a 15 minute walk of our apartment, the houses overhanging the RIVER ONYAR provide one of the most endearing views of Girona. Built towards the end of the Middle Ages, they were originally attached to the city wall which encircled the old quarter. On a typically clear day, the rippling reflections of the warm pastel colours can be quite captivating.
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SHOPAHOLICS BEWARE - Girona is a paradise for shoppers, with more boutiques per head than any other city in Spain. As well as major brands including Lacoste, Massimo Dutti, Tous, Mango and Zara, there's also a large number of independent shops catering for a wide range of styles.
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Some of the window displays in CARRER NOU are a work of art in themselves ...
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... although not all local residents seem equally impressed!
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Largely dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, GIRONA CATHEDRAL has the widest Gothic nave in the world, and the second widest nave of all styles after St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. The Cathedral museum houses the Tapestry of the Creation, which has somehow survived intact from the 11th century.
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Eating al fresco is a popular activity throughout the year, both at midday and in the evening. The "menu del dia" option at lunchtime normally includes a three-course meal at a cost of just 8 to 10 euros, sometimes even including wine. Many fine restaurants are scattered throughout the old quarter, including CAL ROS, popular for its traditional Catalan cuisine ...
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... while just round the corner at ARTUSI the menu has recently been transformed to present Catalan cuisine with a distinctly modern twist.
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The widest choice of restaurants is available in PLACA DE INDEPENDENCIA, ranging from Catalan and Spanish cuisine, through to Italian and Japanese. The 19th century square is overlooked by elegant apartments, originally owned by city merchants.
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One of the best-situated restaurants is CAFE BISTROT, where queues often form early for outdoor tables below the steps of Pujada de Sant Domenec.
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Pujada de Sant Domenec also marks the starting point of CARRER DE LA FORCA which follows the course of the old Roman road Via Augusta up to the cathedral.
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En route to the cathedral, the JEWISH MUSEUM tells the story of how a Jewish community of artisans and traders became established in the city in the 13th century. Much of the Call, the labyrinth of narrow streets and steep passageways at the heart of medieval Girona, has only been recently rediscovered. The latter-day excavation and restoration of the Call is an interesting tale in itself. Best experienced at dusk, the maze of cramped alleys and dark corners conveys a certain sense of timelessness.
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Both children and adults will be fascinated by the creations on display at the MUSEUM OF CINEMA, from Chinese hand shadows to the Lumiere brothers camera. It is one of the few museums where you can take a 500 year journey through the history of images to discover the origins of cinema. On show are technical innovations from the 7th century up to the arrival of television.
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The MUSEU D'ART is housed just behind the cathedral in the restored Episcopal Palace. The early rooms deal with Romanesque art, and the collection progresses chronologically as you climb the floors, passing a room of bright 15th century exhibits, with 19th and 20th century Catalan art on the top two floors.
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Beautiful stone arches are one of the most prominent features of medieval Catalan architecture, here seen on the south side of the CATHEDRAL.
In a much later period, and ...
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... at the same time that Antoni Gaudi was designing imaginative new buildings in Barcelona, Girona had its own modernism movement in the early 20th century. Rafael Masso was the leading architect, whose buildings such as CASA DE LA PUNXA ...
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... and the FARINERA flour mill continue to attract visitors to this day.
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Girona has a fair range of ethnic cuisine - two of our favourites being the Moroccan EL CUL DE LA LLEONA in the old quarter ...
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... and the Japanese restaurant CAFE DE PARC in the modern part of town, set in pleasant parkland.
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Girona boasts a range of art galleries, such as the CAIXA FOUNDATION ...
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... which provides a dramatic setting for touring exhibitions, recently featuring Andy Warhol and Joan Miro.
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The city enjoys three outstanding tapa bars from the Basque country, reputed to be the best region of Spain for tapas, including ZANPANZAR in the old quarter ...
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... and TXALAKA in the modern part of town.
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Many tradional crafts still flourish to this day, including wrought iron working in CADEMAS ...
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... whilst not forgetting, of course, the many LOCAL BAKERS.
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Visitors with a sweet tooth will struggle to resist the temptations on offer in the Ramblas, including the CHOCOLAT FACTORY ...
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... and local ice cream from LA XIXONSENSCA.
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Visitors are likely to pass along the lively shopping street of BALLESTERIES en route to ...
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... the 12tn century ARAB BATHS, whose design includes an interesting mixture of Moorish and Roman influences ...
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... whilst the church of SANT FELIU, just round the corner from the Baths, is believed to have been built above the tomb of Feliu of Africa, a 4th century Bishop of Girona.
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Ballesteries is also popular for its small, family-owned shops, whose value-for-money offerings include necklaces, bracelets and other trinkets from ISABELA ...
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... an Aladdin's Cave of toys, games and puppets from LA CARPA ...
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... an unusual variety of soaps made from olive oil and other natural ingredients from ENJABONARTE ...
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... and candles and other scented products from CANDELA.
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Ballesteries is also popular for the riverside views enjoyed from LA TERRA ...
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... whilst other popular bars in the old quarter include EL CERCLE ...
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... and LOLA, which is one of the many elegant new bars and cafes to have opened recently ...
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... while no description of Girona is complete without mention of the SARDANA, the national Catalan dance which is performed on weekends in public squares throughout the year.
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Copyright 2010 Simon Read All Rights Reserved
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Holiday Apartment
